How to lay Cobbles

Laying cobblestones is not difficult! Anyone can do it! The key to a successful job that will endure for all time, is in the preparation. Every laying job is different. Paving for heavy traffic areas must have a stable sub grade.

These instructions are for driveways, notes on paths bracketed. If in doubt, consult a suitably qualified engineer.

The information here is provided in good faith.

Experienced landscapers:
Mildon Landscapers Ltd

Step One

Set out the area to be paved with string lines and pegs. To square your set out check that your lines are parallel and that diagonal measurements are equal. The recommended drainage fall is 1 in 40.

Step Two

Excavate, compact and level the ground. In normal ground conditions this excavation should be 180mm below the finished paving level. (90mm for walkway paving) NB In soft ground conditions it is important to remove all soft spots and replace with additional quantities of GAP 40.

Step Three

Lay a gravel base of GAP 40 to a depth of 100mm in normal ground conditions. Then compact with a plate vibrator until a dense, tight surface is achieved. The loss of volume through compaction of the base course material is approximate 25%. The finished depth of the base should be 100mm. (50mm of PAP6 for walkway paving.)

Step Four

If after compaction the GAP 40 is not 'tight' ie if the blinding sand is able to penetrate the base, then the base will need to be 'blinded' with PAP 6 sharp. This is best done by laying 20mm thick boards or pipes of a suitable diameter on the GAP 40. These boards or pipes are used as guides for your 'screed' which is a straight edged piece of timber. Place the PAP 6 sharp level with the top of the screed guides. Smooth the surface by dragging the screed board over the top of the guides. This will give an even level bed of 20mm.

Step Five

Compact the PAP 6 sharp. Re-smooth the surface with up to 25mm of No. 3 river sand.

Step Six

Select the laying pattern required and decide on a convenient starting point usually at the lowest point. Work uphill if possible. Butt up each block carefully by hand. Distance between blocks should not exceed 2-3mm. Every five rows check for straightness - if necessary tap the edge of the pavers with a straight board and hammer to re-align. At the edges or around obstacles such as drains or inspection covers, lay the whole blocks first wherever possible.

Step Seven

Mark and cut blocks to size and shape for filling the gaps. This should be done with either a block splitter, a masonry cutting wheel or a diamond saw. For small or fine angle cuts a diamond saw will give best results.

Step Eight

Compact pavers to within 1 metre of perimeter edges. Pavers can be expected to compress one third of the depth of sand used.

Step Nine

Fit edge restraints of either (a) Concrete haunching against edge of perimeter pavers. The top of the haunching should be no higher than 20mm up from the base of the pavers and raked down at an angle of 45 degree. This should be done in such a way that top soil and grassing can take place over the haunching. (b) Timber boards tanalised to a treatment level of H4 supported by pegs. We recommend 50mm boards for driveways and 24mm boards for walkways. Pegs should be driven 300mm into natural ground and spaced at approximately 500mm. (c) Kerbing using interlocking pre-cast kerbs or alternatively pavers on edge set in a concrete haunching.

Step Ten

Spread clean dry river sand over the pavers and sweep into joints. This will need to be repeated over several days. Leave excess sand on for several days before sweeping off.

Step Eleven

Check for level and true to line

Step Twelve

Float off concrete haunching

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How to lay Cobbles

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